A dress line is rarely one dress. A boutique takes the same anarkali in six sizes; a factory
runs it in twelve. Graded by hand, every size is a fresh draft, and the small proportional
decisions that make a bodice sit right have to be made again each time.
S to 5XL from a single draft
The software grades any dress pattern from S to 5XL from a single draft, scaling
proportionally so the design holds its shape at every size - the neckline does not creep,
the waist stays where it was drawn, the flare keeps its sweep. That matters most on the
pieces where proportion is the design: princess cut gowns, anarkalis, salwar kameez and
bridal lehengas all lose their line if a size is graded by eye.
Darts move with the grading
They are not redrawn. The software transfers, rotates and merges darts across the bodice
automatically, which is the part that decides whether a princess cut or a katori
construction fits at the larger sizes or only at the one it was drafted for. Sleeves follow
the same rule - set-in, raglan, bishop and puff are generated to match the armhole curve
they are being set into, so the sleeve and the bodice stay in agreement through the whole
run.
A dress pattern usually leaves the person who drew it. It goes to a cutter, and on
embellished work it goes to an embroidery unit first - and everything the pattern does not
say has to be explained on the phone.
Embroidery zones are marked on the pattern itself
Embroidery, embellishment and zari zones are marked on the digital pattern, so the
production team receives the placement with the piece instead of a description of it. Seam
allowances, notches, grain lines and alteration marks are already on every piece before it
prints, which removes the second round of marking that usually happens on the cutting
table.
Export it, or send it straight to the machine
Getting it out is the same either way: export as DXF, PDF or PLT for another system, or send
it straight to a connected printer, plotter, projector or laser cutter. Print it full scale
onto paper, throw it onto the cloth with a projector, or cut it without paper at all - the
pattern does not have to be redrawn for any of them.